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1975 Zenith El Primero Sub-Sea "Diver"

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An unusual and then very courageous attempt of Zenit to create avant-garde chronograph with extended waterproof capabilities utilizing the legendary El Primero 3019 PHC high-beat movement. This timepiece was produced from 1972 to 1975 and production numbers are still debated; some sources talk about 2,500 pieces, while others state numbers as low as 800 pieces in different variations. The variations in question had mainly to do with different bezels: a diver’s bezel with a 1-55 graduation and an aviator’s bezel with numerals 1 through 12. 

Truly oversized among all oversized vintage chronographs - 44 mm without crown and 14 mm of thickness, yet comfortable on the wrist thanks to balanced tonneau shape of the case. This particular watch is notable for all original parts and strong beautiful case.

The watch went through complete service. Technical warranty: 1 year.

Case:

  • Stainless steel 3-body case with rotating bezel, screw-down caseback and screw-in crown.
  • Professionally restored to sharp geometry and correct finishing. Minor traces of oxidation on the caseback.
  • 44 mm (without crown) / 52 mm (lug-to-lug) / 22 mm (between lugs)
  • Original signed crown. Original pushers.
  • Original mineral crystal.
  • Original bezel insert in excellent condition
  • Reference: 01.0190.415 (800 pieces made) 

    Movement:

    • Precise high-beat 3-reg automatic chronograph, 60 seconds, 30 minutes, 12 hours, pillar wheel subsidiary second with quick-set date 
    • In-house Caliber 3019 signed ‘Zenith’ and ‘Swiss Made’,
    • 31 jewels, 36000 A/h, 50 hours of power reserve, Incabloc shock protection. Quick-set date. 
    • Fully serviced

    Dial:

    • Original untouched dial showing certain traces of ageing.
    • Aged tritium plots.
    • Partial damage to the tachy scale on the inner bezel at 4 o'clock.
    • Signed "Zenith Chronograph Automatic El Primero" at 12 o'clock and "T Swiss Made T" at 6 o'clock. 
    • Original partially restored hand (tritium in hour and minute hands is stabilized with special compound, small chrono hands are painted white)
    • Fine overall condition

    Delivery set:

    • The watch with generic leather strap.
    • Suede leather watch travel case
    • Our company’s warranty certificate, invoice and general terms and conditions.

    Related Items

    Sizing Product

    Measuring a watch

    It is always crucial to understand the size of the watch, especially when it comes to vintage watches which are generally considered as too small in comparison with what watch industry offers today. For example, the original Patek Philippe Calatrava introduced in the 1930s was only 31 mm in diameter, while today's classic Calatrava is 39 mm. When you think about 8 mm, it doesn't seem to be a big difference, but believe it is.

    In our condition reports we normally disclose three most important parameters as follows: diameter without crown / lug-to-lug length / lug width. 

    Diameter without crown

    It is, so far, the most important measurement to understand the size of a regular round-shaped watch.It helps you to understand proportions and overall look of the watch. It is important to consider width of the bezel and color of the dial, because certain combinations may make the watch look bigger, while some other smaller. It is all very individual, however there is common understanding:

    Lug-to-lug width

    This parameter will help you to understand whether the watch is comfortable for wearing. You should compare lug-to-lug width with the width of your wrist, and if lug-to-lug width is smaller or equal, then this watch shall be comfortable.

    Lug width

    This measurement is defining what size of strap you need for the particular watch. Depending on era and manufacturer you can find watches with lug width between 14 mm and 24 mm. Most common sizes are 18 mm and 20 mm.